Ginkgo Biloba Bonsai

February 8th, 2009

Ginkgo Biloba Bonsai from the Montreal Botanical GardensThe ginkgo biloba is a special tree. It’s one of the few examples of a “living fossil“, a species that exists today, and appears in fossils without much change. It is also unique in that it is classified as a conifer, and yet it has broad leaves. Four gingko trees survived within a 2 km radius of the Hiroshima atomic bomb explosion.

As bonsai, however, ginkgo biloba present certain challenges.

Unlike many other species used in bonsai, the leaves of the ginkgo do not reduce in size. This makes creating the illusion of a mature tree in miniature rather difficult. So the most convincing ginkgo bonsai are larger specimens.

They also don’t callus over wounds, so large cuts should be avoided.

Nor do they tolerate cold very well. They should be kept on the dry side during winter, to avoid bursting roots. Winter protection is required in most areas of Canada. (I tried letting some ginkgo saplings and cuttings overwinter in Montreal with minimal insulation and none survived.)

Ginkgo Biloba Bonsai from the Montreal Botanical GardensAll these challenges aside, ginkgo are very tolerant of pollution (this is probably a factor in their longevity).

Their leaves also turn a wonderful shade of golden yellow in the fall. Unlike many other deciduous trees which lose their leaves gradually in the fall, the ginkgo leaves all tend to fall in a short period of time; often in a single day. This is most spectacular non-bonsai ginkgo, but can also be interesting in bonsai.

So if you’re up to the challenge, ginkgo biloba can make a great addition to your bonsai collection, but recognize their unique requirements.

Vacationing in winter while bonsai are dormant

February 5th, 2009

The summer heat means that most bonsai need daily watering. This can make vacationing difficult during the summer months.

For those with bonsai enthusiast friends, they may be able to take care of your bonsai while you’re away. Due to the unique needs of bonsai, it’s unlikely that you would have just anyone plant-sit your bonsai.

Another option is to take vacation during the winter months when bonsai are dormant and need only the occasional attention. This is probably the most fail-safe option. Summer’s fun enough anyway; there’s no better way to beat the winter blues than by taking a vacation.

Winter Protection for Bonsai

October 28th, 2008

While it’s still early for thinking about winter protection for bonsai, the appearance of snow in the Montreal weather forecast has got me thinking about my winter plans.

The idea is fairly simple once you understand that during the winter, the ground only freezes a few feet deep. Below 2-3 feet (depending on your location), the ground is not frozen. So shrubs and trees planted in the ground are generally safe from freezing roots. Your bonsai, not so much.

Temperatures slightly below freezing are generally not dangerous. Remember, tree roots are not pure water. They don’t freeze at 0°C. Sugars and other stuff in the roots mean they freeze at sub-zero temperatures.

So winter protection is only really necessary once winter has really sunken in. For many species, danger occurs below -10°C.

The best way to protect bonsai during the winter, is to dig a hole in the ground a few feet deep. Place the bonsai tree (still in its pot) in the hole, and gently cover with mulch, leaves or straw to insulate it. This way, you’re protecting the tree from the cold outside, but allowing it to be warmed by the ground.

Another option is to place your trees in a place that gets cold, but not dangerously cold. Just be sure the garage does not get warmer than 10°C, or you risk the trees coming out of dormancy. An unused refrigerator would even provide the ideal conditions (just be sure it doesn’t dry out).

Even though our bonsai are dormant during the winter, they continue to have water requirements. You should check your bonsai periodically to ensure they don’t dry out. If temperatures are still above freezing, ensure also that any buried trees are draining sufficiently.

While deciduous trees have no light requirement during the winter, evergreens do (sort of). Evergreens don’t require as much light as during the summer, but they still need some. So forget about placing your pine trees in that unheated garage, unless it gets decent light.

So for the time being, sit back and relax, but start planning your bonsai winter protection. You don’t want to be caught off guard when the cold weather hits.

Planting bulbs in a bonsai pot

August 17th, 2008

Calla lilies in glazed bonsai pot

If you’re reading this, you’re likely one of two people: a bonsai person looking for an alternative use for bonsai pots, or a gardener looking for a different presentation of bulb flowers.

Shallow bonsai pots make an ideal container for growing bulbs. They have just the right soil depth for bulbs. Like bonsai, most bulbs want a free draining soil, so the reduced soil depth and drainage holes of bonsai pots are a great advantage.

The ideal bonsai pot for bulbs should allow for about 1 inch of soil mix below the bulb. A standard 14 or 16 inch bonsai pot, with a depth of about 4 to 6 inches, would be just right for most bulbs.

Plant the bulbs leaving about 1/2 inch of space between each. Small bulbs should be covered with soil mix, but tulip and daffodil bulbs can have their tips exposed.

So whether you’re a bonsai enthusiast with some extra pots on-hand, looking to add some color to your garden, or a bulb gardener looking for some creative pots, try planting bulbs in a bonsai pot. They make great gifts too!

Using bonsai drainage mesh

April 21st, 2008

Since bonsai must be planted in very free-draining soil, bonsai pots have numerous large drainage holes. (It does nothing to have free-draining soil if the pot won’t let the water escape.) But the large holes also mean that your granular bonsai soil will just fall out. That’s why we have bonsai drainage mesh (or drainage netting).

Securing the drainage mesh in the pot is quite simple, and only requires a little bit of bonsai wire (1mm wire is more then enough) and wire cutters.

Start with a piece of wire about 6 inches long. Smaller holes will require less wire, but until you get a hang of bending the wire, it is easier to use a slightly longer piece.Holding the piece of wire in the centre, bend one end over itself to create a loop at a 90 degree angle. Repeat with the other end. The distance between the “intersections” should be the diameter of your drainage holes.

Using bonsai drainage mesh

Next, bend the ends of wire down where they intersect. The loops create a flat plane with the ends of wire pointing down.

Using bonsai drainage mesh

Trim the mesh as required and cover the drainage hole. (In my case, I have several holes closely spaced, so I found it easier to use one large piece of mesh to cover all three holes.)

The wire ends can be slipped through the drainage mesh and the loops overhang the edge of the pot.

Using bonsai drainage mesh

Flip the pot over, and bend the ends of wire flush against the bottom of the pot. You can trim the ends of they’re too long.

Using bonsai drainage mesh

Repeat with all the remaining holes. When you have finished, your pot is ready for soil and a bonsai tree.

You’ll notice this pot has four small holes (two near my upper hand, and two more on the opposite side). These are wire holes used to thread a long piece of wire from the bottom, in one side, and out the other, to secure a newly repotted bonsai. Replant your tree, and tie the wire together over the root ball, and cover with more soil. The wire will hold the bonsai in place until new root growth has securely anchored it. (If your pot doesn’t have dedicated wire holes, you can just use the drainage holes.)

Using bonsai drainage mesh

How to grow moss on bonsai soil

March 15th, 2008

No bonsai is ready for presentation without a lush bed of velvety green moss. Moss acts as miniature “grass” under your bonsai tree, creating an idyllic landscape. Since bonsai soil must be free-draining, the surface will never retain enough moisture to develop moss naturally. Rather, moss must be applied to the soil surface. You can either collect moss from nature, or grow your own from moss spores.

Moss can be found in nature, in shaded and moist areas. It can be readily collected and simply pieced together and applied to the surface of bonsai soil. Over time, the moss will spread to fill any gaps. Unfortunately, this process has two downsides. You might be unable to find sufficient quantities of moss, and collecting moss introduces the risk of spreading parasites and weeds. If your bonsai collection is particularly valuable, this may not be a risk you’re willing to take.

Luckily, many bonsai supply retailers sell moss spores (or seeds). For a couple dollars, you get enough spores to cover several small bonsai pots, or one very large pot. Growing moss from spores (in sterilized soil) guarantees zero risk of pests and diseases.

To grow moss from spores, simply spread wet, sterilized soil in a tray, to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Spread the spores evenly over the soil surface. Water frequently to keep the soil moist. Grow indoors at a relatively cool indoor temperature, exposing the tray to only moderate sunlight for a couple hours per day. Anything more will simply dry out the soil. Your moss should appear within 4 to 6 weeks. When you’re ready, simply transfer to your bonsai pots.

Growing moss is a fairly delicate process, so here are some helpful hints. A sandy loam soil is best, and it should be sterilized. You can sterilize soil by placing it in a conventional oven at 200°F for 30 minutes. Since you want moist soil, but not waterlogged soil, a terra cotta tray is better than a plastic tray. Or add a few small drainage holes at the edge of a plastic tray. A spray bottle will help you water the soil gently without washing the spores away. A plastic tent over the tray will trap in humidity, reducing the frequency of watering. Finally, do not fertilize. Just like fertilizer can harm seedlings and fine roots, it will destroy your moss.

Maintaining moss on bonsai soil can be tricky, since moss likes moisture, but bonsai like well-drained soil. Your priority, of course, is the health of your bonsai. Since moss on the soil surface will trap in moisture, your watering schedule will need to be adjusted to prevent over-watering. But to maintain lush green moss, you might want to mist the moss regularly. This will give the moss the moisture it wants, without drowning your bonsai. But if in doubt, use the moss only for presentation display.

Finally, moss should be removed before winter, since it provides an ideal protection for insects.

Buying bonsai tools: Quality counts

March 7th, 2008

Concave cutterWhen on the market for bonsai tools, it can be sometimes daunting, since you can find the same tool in versions ranging from $10 all the way to $150 and beyond. There is a huge difference in quality over this price range, but unfortunately product descriptions often don’t get into these details.

Bonsai tools can be roughly divided into 4 categories:

  • Chinese tools
  • Japanese tools
  • High-carbon steel Japanese tools
  • Stainless steel Japanese tools

You can probably guess that I’ve listed these starting from lowest quality to highest. When you come across very inexpensive bonsai tools, you’re likely looking at a Chinese tool, which almost invariably is of low quality. The steel quality is poor and the same can be said for the workmanship. Chinese bonsai tools should be avoided at all costs.

Anyone serious about bonsai will find it worthwhile to seek out Japanese-made bonsai tools. In Japanese tools, you’ll find tools made of two metals: carbon steel and stainless steel.

Carbon steel is a bit of a misnomer, because steel is defined as an allow of iron and carbon (and sometimes trace amounts of other metals). But it is generally used to distinguish it from stainless steel. As the carbon content in steel increases, the harder it becomes, but this also makes the alloy harder to work with. For this reason higher carbon content steel is preferred, but this also carries a price premium.

Introductory Japanese bonsai tools use medium-carbon steel. (I’ve said to avoid Chinese tools because they typically use low-carbon steel, which is too soft for quality tools.) Higher quality Japanese tools will use high-carbon steel, which allows the tools to keep a sharp edge longer. Keeping a sharp blade on bonsai tools is important for more than just convenience. Sharp tools will create clean cuts that will allow the tree to heal more quickly. And since bonsai (especially spherical concave cutters and knob cutters) have very specialized and precise cutting edges, it’s harder to sharpen them compared to knives or shears. So if you have a sizable bonsai collection, it’s worth investing in high-carbon steel tools.

Finally, you also have stainless steel bonsai tools. Stainless steel is steel to which chromium is added for stain, rust and corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is even more difficult to work than high-carbon steel, which explains the significant price premium it commands. But if you do heavy bonsai work, you’ll quickly appreciate the convenience of lower maintenance. (Since all bonsai tools should be cleaned after use to prevent spreading disease, carbon steel tools must also be thoroughly dried and lightly oiled to prevent rusting.)

So when it comes to buying bonsai tools, you certainly get what you pay for. The best advice is to purchase the best quality you can afford, since there are noticeable advantages to each quality upgrade. And think of the tools as an investment. A good purchase will last you for decades (if not a lifetime), and who can put a price on that much bonsai fun?

For the best place in Canada to get bonsai tools, visit Natural Bonsai. They ship throughout Canada and sell only Japanese tools (by Joshua Roth). Their novice tools use medium-carbon steel, their intermediate and professional tools use high-carbon steel. They also have a full stainless steel line.

Longing for spring repotting, but planning and saving now

March 2nd, 2008

Montreal weather has been all over the map over the last few weeks. We went from -20ºC just a couple days ago, to the high of 8ºC that they’re forecasting for tomorrow. And as much as I’ll be enjoying the warmth tomorrow, even on the colder days you can’t help but notice the warmth of the sun. Winter is losing ground.

It’s on days like these that I think ahead to the spring, and get excited to see my bonsai emerge from under their blanket of snow, or come out from their winter protection. These are perfect times to start getting ready for the busy weekends of spring bonsai duties.

Spring is the usual time for repotting bonsai. Young trees usually need to be repotted yearly, but more mature trees can usually go a few years between repotting. During repotting, the root ball is untangled, trimmed, and the tree is repotted in fresh bonsai soil. If you plan on scaling your bonsai up in size, you might repot into a larger pot.

Until this time actually comes, I like to make sure that I have everything I need well in advance. The worst thing is to be ready for working on your bonsai, and realize that you’re missing tools or supplies. Like having a pot in mind for your repotting, only to realize that you used it for your last acquisition, or you have it away to a friend. Or that you lost your root cutters or bonsai shears last summer.

Even if you don’t usually plan ahead as far in advance as I do, I’ll give you another reason to consider it. Natural Bonsai, my favourite online Canadian bonsai supply store is having a storewide 10% off sale from now until Friday. If you’ve never purchased from them, I urge you to give them a try. They have a great selection of tools, bonsai wire, and especially pots. They ship throughout Canada, so it saves you a trip to wherever you usually get your supplies. And pots ship free. So be ready early this year, and save a few dollars in the process.

What is bonsai? Misconceptions and scams.

March 1st, 2008

False Cypress Bonsai (Chamaecyparis obtusa) photo by Dake. {{cc-by-sa-2.5}}It sometimes surprises me how often bonsai, for as relatively mainstream as it is, is misunderstood by some many. (But then again, it shouldn’t, since I know quite little about many other forms of art.) I am constantly finding myself explaining to others that bonsai are not specials tree species, nor are they mistreated, to be kept small. Nor do many people understand the aesthetic goal of bonsai: to recreate in miniature the illusion of a full grown tree.

I’d like to expand on that last fact. I’m not sure which came first, the misconception of what is bonsai by the general public, or the opportunistic bonsai sellers who will sell any sorry juniper twig as a “bonsai” for a king’s ransom. I don’t have the heart to tell new acquaintances, when they say they once had a “bonsai”, that it most likely wasn’t really a bonsai by any standards. This is where I’ll break out some of my favourite bonsai books to show them what a bonsai should really look like. My guests then gawk at the age of the bonsai examples, and I proceed the explain that bonsai is a lifelong hobby, rather than something disposable that you purchase at the mall.

Nature as Inspiration for Bonsai

February 26th, 2008

In designing and creating bonsai, we often turn to bonsai examples we’ve seen in botanical gardens, friends’ collections, books, and on the Internet. But we sometimes forget that the most unique and amazing source of bonsai inspiration are full-grown trees shaped by Nature herself.

Bonsai InspirationWhen you’re out and about, keep an eye open for interesting tree shapes. Making a quick sketch or taking a photo is a great help. The photo I’ve included in this posting is from the Alpine garden of the Montreal Botanical Gardens. It shows a mother-daughter style twin-trunk pine, where the “mother” trunk is leaning over as if to protect her “daughter” trunk.

Don’t feel as though you have to wait until summer to look for interesting trees. It is sometimes even more fun to examine bare trees, since their branch structure is completely exposed. This allows you to see how interesting trees are “built”, which can be useful when pruning your bonsai.

For more examples of interesting tree shapes, visit the Bonsai4me inspiration gallery, which features examples of interesting trees from around the world.